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The filament lightbulbs at Tom Colicchio’s endlessly imitated restaurant don’t look quite as cutting-edge as they used to. But the classic farm-to-table menu still exudes a sense of austere, even biblical, authority, and almost everything on it tastes exceptional. Pay special attention to the simple, unadorned pleasures—the fat, milky Fanny Bay oysters from British Columbia, the ever-changing seasonal selection of hand-foraged mushrooms, and the impossibly sweet diver scallops, which were garnished, the last time I dropped by, with a simple bay leaf and served with a pot of vermouth butter on the side.
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