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Back in July 2006, not long after it opened on the upper reaches of Lexington Avenue, we gave this instantly popular nouveau rustico Italian mom-and-pop shop an enthusiastic three stars. It’s not quite the same (the original chef-owners have since moved on), which is why it gets two stars here. But the fabled original bread recipe lives on (you can now order the crunchy, addictively salty loaves to go), and thanks to the new chef, John Carr, the best of the original Tuscan specialties—hand-rolled tagliatelle with guanciale and kale, the flattened chicken al mattone spritzed with lemon—are still worth a few extra subway stops.
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