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The ginza Renoir chain of kissaten (old-school coffee shops) evokes the Tokyo of 1982: chrome and glass; wall-to-wall carpeting; men wearing huge spectacles reading huge newspapers. It has the best breakfast in the city: a bowl of thin consomme, a piece of toast and a hard-boiled egg for the ridiculous price of around 50p with a coffee. Come at lunch, when Renoirs in the downtown area are full of salarymen stealing an hour's sleep. Or stop by before dinner for a slice of this institution's great contribution to world cuisine: pizza toast. There are older and more independent coffee shops in the metropolis, but none as good as Renoir.
Warning: most establishments listed here don't accept credit cards or have English menus or service, and most allow smoking
+ 81 3 3580 2192, ginza-renoir.co.jp. Open Mon-Fri 7.30am-10pm, Sat 7.30am-7pm, Sun/holidays 9am-6pm
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