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At Bo.lan, the gap between Thai fine dining and Thai comfort food really hits home. Since 2009, chef couple Duangporn Songvisava and Dylan Jones (“Bo” and “Lan”) have constantly raised the bar for genuine royal Thai cuisine, researching recipes, tracking down former palace chefs, continuing their path towards a zero-carbon footprint, and pushing diners to increasing extremes. With no a la carte menu offered, tables sign up for a degustation menu where all the dishes are served simultaneously for an experience that’s like a Thai home-cooked meal. But this is something else altogether. The best ingredients and the most complicated, labor-intensive techniques combine in aromatic curries, artfully plated salads that burst with the depth of untold herbs and flowers, and other seasonal wonders. Underlining the experience is a strikingly rustic dining room, set in an old house surrounded by tropical greenery. Even without the regular pop-ups abroad, from Hong Kong to New York, it’s time Bo.lan was recognized as a true cultural treasure.
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