21-22 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NE, UK 21-22 Warwick Street, Soho, London W1B 5NE, UK
Nopi. London, United Kingdom

This is a love letter to Nopi. This is passion, raw and unfettered, in the face of a chef whose food I have been cooking in my own kitchen, thanks to beautifully constructed tomes that are as fulfilling to read as they are to use. This is the moment I have been waiting for.

Nopi was everything I’d hoped it would be: a meal that tasted as if it were cooked by someone who understands exactly what makes my palate hum. Hearty at times, dainty at others — Ottolenghi maintains the balance of an Olympic gymnast in the kitchen. Dish after dish offered acid, umami, uncanny seasoning, temperature play.

Olives — simple! — brightened by whole pink peppercorns caused a mild riot. Courgette fritters were flecked with manouri and fried into plump rounds; cool cardamom yogurt proved an apt companion. Dessert was fork-soft chocolate cake with plum “soil.” I believe it hit 11 on the Richter scale.

I could go on, but what’s the use? I advise you, instead, to travel and taste for yourself.

21-22 Warwick St.
London, W1B 5NE


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