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SANTO SCENARIUM, ESPRIT SAINT
Avec ses murs décorés de sculptures de saints et de reliquaires, ce restaurant est la halte obligée du premier samedi du mois, jour où les brocanteurs viennent déballer leurs marchandises sur le trottoir de la rua do Lavradio.
While Rio Scenarium gets all the attention in Rua do Lavradio, Santo Scenarium is like its less showy but slightly more refined sister. The original features of this bar have been painstakingly preserved and the walls are decked with icons and other religious artefacts that lend an imposing air. Even the bars from its days as a police station can still be found intact.
On Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays, the live music is instrumental jazz and Brazilian choro, but don’t forget the R$10 cover charge. No less entertaining is the show outside, where you can perch on a balmy night and watch everyone from transvestites to street sellers wandering past. Bar snacks are one of the highlights here, and the deep fried brie straws with orange sauce (R$33) are unmissable, as is the Kibe (R$19 for 10) which makes a good choice for sharers.
Rua do Lavradio 36, Centro Antigo. Tél. : 3147 9007.
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