Napoleon

The concept: Sharing and sampling are encouraged at this cosy 40-seater. Both the owners are French, which may explain why the menu leans that way, with modern interpretations of classics like Coq au vin (braised chicken) and beef tartare. Portions are best for groups of up to four, while the reasonable prices will appeal to this who want to "order more to try". In line with the sampling concept is the eye-catching wine vending machine, which doles out vino in tasting, half- or full-glass portions (from $2).

Must tries: Being lamb-averse, we took a tiny, tentative bite of the Lamb Shank Parma ($22), then a larger mouthful, then another, and another, until only a shallow puddle of lamb jus remained. This dish with shredded meat and chunky mashed potatoes and rich gravy truly changed our attitudes towards lamb.

Make sure you get a bit of every component of the Poached Salmon ($18) in each mouthful - moist fish with the sweet earthiness of pea purée and the saltiness of salmon roe.

Served with vanilla-bean ice cream and crunchy, buttery crumble the chocolate covered Profiteroles ($12) make for a satisfying dessert.